Much has been written online on this topic, and their are many correct ways to keep rabbits. Here are a few of my favorite links:

https://angorarabbit.com - many articles and videos. One of the best resources for English Angora care. 
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​https://www.ohiohollandlops.com/bunny-care.html - Holland lop specific, but applies to most pet rabbits. 

https://arba.net/​ - American Rabbit Breeders website contains quite a bit of information many aspects of rabbit care.
Also your go-to for finding rabbit shows, getting your rabbits registered etc.. 
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General Rabbit information with an emphasis on Pet care:
https://rabbitpedia.com/ 

A couple points I like to emphasize:

• Rabbits, especially wool breeds, are best kept in a wire bottom hutch. Otherwise long-haired rabbits will get poo and bedding in their fur EVERY day. 

Rabbits have thick fur pads on the bottom of their feet and most breeds do very well on wire. Would you rather live in a thickly carpeted home with piles of poo and pee you have to sleep in or live in a clean home with hardwood or tile floor? Ideally any rabbit home will have a door you can leave open to allow the bunny to come and go during supervised play time. They will usually return to their hutch to go to the 'bathroom'. Locally both Tractor Supply and Atwoods sell a colorful and functional wire-bottom rabbit starter kit for around $40.

• If you must use a solid bottom cage, Pelleted Pine horse bedding, sold at most farm stores, is my personal favorite and works pretty well, even with Jersey Woolies. It has the added benefit of sort of 'clumping' like cat litter making it easy to remove just the soiled bits. The soiled litter makes a great mulch/fertilizer for your plants. Also it is much less expensive than pet store bedding ~$5 for a 40lb bag. This is what I use in my litter boxes when I potty train rabbits. 

 

• Rabbit pee smells badly. You will quickly hate your rabbit if you are not committed to regular cage cleaning. (made much easier by a wire bottom cage) When our rabbits are kept inside the cage pan needs to be dumped every other day and sprinkled with an odor absorbing product like Sweet PDZ. I hear Puppy pee pads in the cage pan also works well. Outside rabbit pans are dumped 1-2 times per week. 

• Rabbits are quite happy to live alone, especially if you get them out every couple days and play with them. If you do not plan to get your rabbit out a few times a week... then why are you getting one as a pet? They do however love to have toys, cardboard, boxes, branches, balls, hay etc, to play with and toss around. If you are worried your rabbit is lonely, try getting the bunny some fun toys first. Rabbits can be quite brutal with each other and two together often means one is living in constant terror. However it really depends on the individual rabbit and is hard to predict. That being said, siblings, especially two sisters, usually do get along fabulously. A neutered buck and a doe can get along quite well also. My does, weather permitting, are let out into a large pen with lots of hiding places, and they almost always all get along. Two bucks - usually a fight to the death. 

• It only takes about 30 sec for a doe to become pregnant, (this feels like some sort of public health campaign slogan...) so never leave an intact buck and a doe together for any amount of time unless you want babies. Even neutered rabbits or same-sex siblings will periodically mount each other to show dominance in a manner that is very 'R' rated. Your tolerance to this will vary. For a 'G' rated bunny experience a single rabbit is best. Even so, a doe is the safest bet, as some bucks really 'love' their stuffed toys.